What Makes an Ideal Kitchen?

It is wrong to think that all the rooms that are too small and uncomfortable, are good for the kitchen? This is the room where households spend considerable time and was one of the rooms smarter and more comfortable home that the results of the other part so dependent on health and family welfare, such as those involved in this place.

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Every kitchen should have windows on both sides of the room, and the sun should have free access to the windows should be opened from the top to allow a complete change of air, light and fresh air is one of the foundations more important to the success of all departments of the house. Good drainage should also be provided and the ventilation of the kitchen should always be careful when visiting the room. The distribution of food is as plentiful as well as the removal of all gases and odors that enter simultaneously as the steam boiling and other cooking methods, usually unhealthy, and to some extent, any other part of the house.

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It should provide sufficient space for tables, chairs, cabinets and sink, chambers, but not as large as needed because too many steps.

Undoubtedly most of the antipathy and neglect household chores, so often deplored, resulting in unpleasant environment. If the kitchen is bright, airy and clean and the utensils bright and clean, the work of the composition of these foodstuffs through the list and fill will also be a pleasant task.

There is desirable from a health point of view of the kitchen floor impervious to moisture, ie, concrete or tile floors are better than wooden floors. Clean is the big issue, and this may be the best way it can penetrate any duplication woodwork in and around the kitchen with the colors, fabrics, stains and grease stains caused, not wood when polished, and can be easily with a damp cloth to remove.

The elements of beauty should not be lost in the kitchen. Pictures and luxury goods are not adequate, but a few pots of flowers grown in the windowsill or easily mounted on supports for the windows in winter, and one organized window within a gardener, vines and plant flowers in summer, which is much more bright space, and thereby serve to facilitate the work of those daily limits of whose work in the kitchen area.

The furniture of the kitchen is not too heavy and should be planned retirement is easy to clean. There should be several offices, and all the interests of the class will be spent for a particular purpose. Cupboard with sliding doors are much better than closets. Should be placed on casters to move easily, because it is not only useful but increasingly recognize the maid.

Cabinets used for storage of food must be well ventilated, otherwise provide a standard choice for the development of molds and bacteria.

Roll container can be vented through openings in the top and doors with very fine mesh over the air, but stay away flies and dust there.

For ordinary kitchen uses, small tables of suitable height for easy rolling wheels with high and zinc, more convenient and easier to clean. It is so good that it made no drawers, which are also likely to be vessels of a heterogeneous mass of rubble. If you want a convenient place to store the data often needed to use a similar system can be represented in the accompanying cut is produced at low cost. You may also see an advantage for small shelves above and beyond the area where they can be kept several types needed for cooking.

One of the articles of organization is essential to a well equipped kitchen, sink, sink, however, is well built and maintained properly, or there will probably be a source of great danger to the health of the occupants of the house. The good must be, if possible, from wall to allow free access to all parts, for reasons of hygiene. Pipes and fittings should be selected and presented by a qualified plumber.

Efforts should be taken to maintain the pipes are clean and disinfected. They refuse any kind must be maintained. Housekeepers reckless and careless employee can often oily water and waste pieces of table to find their way in the piping. Drain pipes usually have a curve, or trap containing water, sediment does not flow freely, but the melted grease which often goes to the pipes mixed with hot water is chilled and firm, because it increases compliance with pipes, and gradually accumulate until the brain is clogged or the water passes through very slowly. A grease tube-investment is a breeding ground for germs.

What Makes an Ideal Kitchen?
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Long Distance Spin Casting

We read up on it, and become sure we can do it. After all, hitting a good tee shot seems a lot harder than casting a spinning rod.

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So we march to the lake with visions of hooking and landing a faraway lunker. We set up our fishing rod and step up to the bank and cast. Our lure, however, flies off to the right and not very far. Disappointed, we cast again and again. The results don't change.

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Golf didn't seem this frustrating! So we think all you need is some practice. But after hours and hours of it, we're still in the same, going-nowhere casting boat, so to speak. Discouraging, to say the least. No wonder we think about giving up fishing.

Yes, I know!

But instead of giving up, I wondered, what if there's a lot more to casting a spinning rod than what I read? What if I experiment with using other techniques, the techniques of throwing a ball and of casting a fly rod?

So I began a year of casting trials and errors. Lots of errors!

Then finally it happened: Consistently, I felt the beauty of loading the rod, of watching the lure streak over the water, and land right where I wanted it to.

Here's how I got there.

THE OPEN STANCE
Most of us feel more comfortable using an open stance; so, assuming we're right-handed, our left foot is forward and pointing straight at the target. This is similar to the position we're in when we throw a baseball. The front of our right foot is about in-line with the front of our left heel and points outward, about 30 degrees to the right of the target. (If our right foot is too far back or too far outward, we'll limit our hip rotation during the forward cast.) To help increase our leverage and power, our knees are slightly bent. We shift our weight to the ball of our front foot. Our right heel is off the ground. We flex our thumb and put it on the top of the rod handle. We hold the rod loosely and point it straight ahead and parallel to the water. Our elbow is even with the front of our waist. The lure hangs down about two feet from the rod tip.

THE CLOSED STANCE
I believe there is nothing wrong with using an open stance, but I also believe that when we cast a spinning rod, unlike when we throw a ball, we don't bend at the waist to generate leverage and power. Instead, we rotate our hips as much as possible, like a batter hitting a ball or a boxer throwing a punch. If our left foot, therefore, is forward we will not be able to fully rotate our hips and get all our weight into the cast. Therefore, I prefer to use a closed stance: My right foot is in front of my left. At first, this will probably feel awkward for many casters, but with time, I believe, it will become more comfortable.

THE POWER GRIP.
We start with two fingers in front of the reel stem and two behind. We pick up the line with our right index finger and move our hand back so only our line finger is in front of the stem. Next, we pull the line up and back, and then we press our fingertip against the stem, but not against the line. (I like to feel the weight of the lure to cast it accurately.) We hold the line this way for the same reason a good fly caster doesn't let slack form in his fly line: to keep constant tension on the line, so that as soon as we start the cast the lure pulls on the rod and therefore fully loads the rod. (Holding the line the conventional way made it impossible for me to keep enough tension on the line. Even worse, I found it very difficult to keep my index finger from prematurely straightening and releasing the line. No wonder my casts were short, high and off to the side.)

Until we get our timing down, we'll use a golf glove or a band-aid to prevent the line from cutting into our finger.

MOVING THE ROD.
I initially assumed the faster I moved the rod the farther I'd cast. For two reasons I was wrong. 1. A pitcher achieves maximum power and velocity only when his arm moves in sync with his body rotation. If his arm gets ahead of his body he becomes an arm thrower. No wonder major league pitchers seem to throw as if they're not using all their might! Maximum arm speed is reached only at the release. 2.To fully load the rod we must accelerate it. If the rod moves too quickly, the speed of the line, or in our case the lure, moves almost as fast as the rod and therefore doesn't fully pull on and load the rod. The cast dies well short of its target. (A stiffer rod loads better with a shorter, faster stroke, but the stroke must still be accelerated.)

THE CAST AND POWER SNAP.
We open the bail. Using our arm not our wrist, and slightly raising our elbow, we slowly accelerate the rod up and back. As we move the rod, we rotate our shoulders backwards and shift our weight to the heel of our back foot. When the rod is at about 2 o'clock, we break our wrist back and lower the rod to about 3 o'clock. Our elbow still points straight ahead. (If it points out to the side, we'll not be able finish the cast without lowering the rod tip from the target line and prematurely unloading the rod.) Our forearm, depending how far we raised our elbow, is between 1 and 2 o'clock. Our upper arm is parallel to the water or points slightly upward. If our lure is not too light, and/or our spinning rod too stiff, we should already be loading the rod. We must, however, not move the rod too fast, because if we do, the lure will bounce at the end of the cast and prematurely unload the rod. When in doubt, it is better to move the rod too slowly rather than too quickly.

We immediately start our forward cast, with our eyes focused on an imaginary target in the sky, about 45 degrees above the water, but higher if the wind is from behind, lower if from in front. Leading with our elbow, rotating our hips and shoulders, we accelerate the rod and soon move the tip in a straight line that points to the target in the sky. The rod butt moves at a right angle to the target line. (Fully rotating our hips and shoulders allows us to increase the length we can move, and therefore load, the rod at this angle.) When our arm is extended about three-quarters of the way, we tighten our grip, then, as we reach maximum arm speed, we shift all our weight to our front foot and snap our wrist halfway, as if we're hammering a nail. Without lowering the rod tip from the target line, we abruptly stop the rod and let go of the line. Our front leg is now straight. Our right shoulder is all the way forward. Our arm is fully extended. Our weight is on the ball and toes of our front foot. We hold the rod still so we don't lower the tip and pull the line down.

THAT EXTRA DISTANCE:
So, we practiced these techniques and we're casting farther than ever, but wouldn't you know it: We're back on the beach, and the fish are again ten feet beyond our reach. Now what's a caster to do? We'll borrow techniques from spey-rhymes with say-casters, and lengthen our so-called back swing, and therefore load the spinning rod even more. How? We begin our spey-like cast the same way we begin our traditional cast, but as soon as the spinning rod points to about 10:30, we swing the rod outward. Keeping our elbow in place, and thinking of it as a swivel, we begin to shift our weight back. Slowly increasing acceleration, and keeping the rod at the same angle, we pretend we're using the rod tip to draw a big half-oval in the sky. When we're almost finished drawing, we raise our elbow and break our wrist down. The rod should be at about 3 o'clock and point straight behind us. Immediately, we begin our forward cast.

AS I DESCRIBE ALL THIS. Learning to cast a spinning rod seems a lot easier than it was. Well maybe if, like most skilled golfers, I had learned the right techniques from the start it would've been.

But better late than never.

Long Distance Spin Casting
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Get Good Office Furniture Chairs For More Productivity

Your goal in creating an ideal workplace should start with choosing the right office furniture chairs. Whether you want to fill a new office space of remodeling an existing one, the kind of chairs, desks, and other furniture you choose to put in your office will make a huge difference in your employee's productivity and your business as a whole.

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The success in finding the right office furniture lies on several factors. You need to ensure that the furniture is ergonomic to guarantee comfort. It has to be well-suited to your comfort level, body type, height, and shape. The desk should be large enough to accommodate the computer, ample space for a regular keyboard, monitor, sufficient room for plenty of mouse movement, an area for a printer, and most importantly, more than enough space for writing and paperwork.

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Choose an office furniture chair which offers enough support, especially lumbar support for the back and neck. You should consider the comfort factor above all else because employees spend a huge chunk of their day sitting on their chairs. Different people need various kinds of chair, but one common factor that a good office chair should offer is comfort. Most people sacrifice comfort in the quest for an attractive and stylish workplace. But think about this, what's the point of having gorgeous and stunning furniture if it's hard and uncomfortable to use?

Most people prefer chairs that have casters because it makes the chair flexible enough to move from one place to another. You don't need to worry overmuch about the kind of flooring that your office has as most office chair wheels can easily roll both on carpets and hardwood floors. When thinking about the ideal chair for you, consider the various tasks that you do everyday in the office, then decide what is more ergonomic and comfortable for you. Whether you are looking for a chair to be used for a workstation, a conference room or in your home office, you have to ensure that it's suitable for your use.

If want to buy a desk chair you have to ensure its flexibility and adjustability. A proper desk chair should have these features to ensure that it's comfortable enough and will give your body much-needed support. The chair should also have enough padding so you will be at ease and still maintain good posture while sitting.

Different tasks require various kinds of office chairs. For example, if you are a secretary or a typist, you will require a chair that promotes good posture for an extended period of time. If you are a receptionist, you would want a chair that is easy to get in and out of and is very movable. You can find these features in a wide range of chairs equipped with swivel backs and wheels, built for the purpose. Indeed, choosing the right office furniture chair is essential to improve an employee's productivity and quality of work.

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Run &amp; Gun Channel Cats

Channel Catfish are well known for their nocturnal tendencies. Most anglers target Channel Catfish after sunset and usually this is the best time but Channel Catfish will bite during daylight hours. It might take a little more effort but you can find active Channel Catfish at this time. My favorite method is running and gunning in the search for those fish willing to stray outside their daytime haunts for a midday snack.

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Run & gun is usually associated with bass fishing running from one point to another searching for active bass willing to bite. The same method works for daytime Channel Cat fishing with some modifications. Instead of running and gunning points and ledges you want to run & gun brush piles inside coves. Many people think that Channel Catfish retreat to deep water during the day but they can be found in very shallow water.

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Channel Catfish in shallow water still prefer low light so they will bury themselves deep inside brush piles and root wads. Their intensions are to wait out the day in these dark domains but some can be lured out with the right snack food. Not all Channels will venture out but there is always a few, for whatever reason, that will aggressively take your presentation. These are the fish you are looking for and the reason that the run & gun method can put more Channel Cats in your live-well than any other method during the day.

What I look for when searching for catfish during the day is shallow coves with brush or standing timber. Brush seems to be better during the day while the standing timber is a great structure for night time pursuits. I usually hit all the coves as you just don't know what is underwater and unseen. There could be plenty of brush below the surface, so leave no cove unfished in your run & gun approach. I usually only give a spot 15 minutes or so before running to another spot so you don't waste too much time if the barren looking cove actually is and if it isn' t you might put a couple good Channels in the boat.

I prefer to fish out of the back of the boat and have my rod holders set-up for this. When approaching the cove I shut off the big motor and maneuver into position with my trolling motor on a low setting as Channel Catfish tend to be easily spooked. I drop an anchor off the front of the boat then back the boat into position letting out a little rope to ensure that moving to the back of the boat won't break loose the anchor in the front. When in the back of the boat I then drop a second anchor with just a little slack so the boat can not swing. Once in position the rods are baited then set out strategically in the cove.

If there is visible brush be sure to surround the brush with your baits. It is important to let the fish come to you and keep your baits out of the middle of the brush where you will end up hanging every line and wasting time re-tying instead of running & gunning. Hang ups will also run every fish out of the brush where you might pull two or three out of the same brush pile if you make them come to you, leaving the brush somewhat undisturbed. Besides that I have returned later and caught more fish out of a brush pile that produced an hour or two earlier.

My bait of choice might surprise some folks as I stay away from any kind of stinky baits. For one thing they stink up my boat for another I find that fresh meat tends to lure the bigger fish. Channel Catfish are scavengers until they reach a few pounds then they actually become a predator. Some may argue that Flatheads are the only catfish that are predators but I have caught way too many Channels on crankbaits while bass fishing, as well as trolling, to convince me they are not predators and everyone of them have been over 4 pounds.

My personal favorite, where legal, is fresh bluegill. Cut shad is fine but bluegill seem to be preferred, especially in a lake that is full of shad. I think bluegill becomes a delicacy. I use cut bait because I can get more bait out of one bluegill which are actually hard to come by in my home lake as there are so many shad they have pushed the bluegill out. I scale both sides of the bluegill then fillet both sides discarding the carcass. I scale the bluegill because it seems to release more scent and make a soft bait for the Channel Cats to easily engulf. I hook one chunk to my hook. Don't wad the meat up on the hook just one stick is enough with the bluegill meat as the skin helps to keep it on. When you ball the meat up on the hook you tend to lose the gap and therefore loosing hookups as the wad of meat will slide out of its mouth too easy as well as covering the point of the hook on the hook-set.

Terminal tackle for the run & gun method is the conventional catfish rig. I use heavy tackle as I am targeting big channels not the little feeder cats so many people are after. I seldom ever hook a channel cat less than 3 pounds and you have to be able to wrestle the fish quickly away from the brush as that is where it intends on taking its mid day snack and if it makes it you will probably have to bring the whole brush pile into the boat if you want that fish.

I spool my bait casters with 20 pound mono. At the end I thread on a sinker slider then tie on an inline swivel. The swivel is mainly to stop the sinker slider but if you have caught ever caught a good size Channel Catfish you know how they will roll and the swivel will help with line twist from that. I use a 2/0 to 4/0 circle octopus hook. I use an octopus circle hook because with a circle hook you want to let the fish hook itself. If you set the hook with a circle hook you will pull it out of the fishes mouth. If you let the fish hook itself when fishing these heavy brush piles you run the chance of it getting into the thick brush before hooking up. With the octopus circle you get the benefit of the circle hook but are able to set the hook with the slightest bite so you can stick the fish before it gets into the brush. I snap a ½ to ¾ oz sinker to the slider and the rig is ready. I use the slider as it protects your line as well as keeping the fish from feeling any resistance which is important with Channel Cats.

Try this on your next trip and you might be surprised at the results. Use that fresh meat and see the size of your Channel Catfish grow. You might not get as many bites as with stinky baits but the fish are quality and usually they are not messing around on the takes. The run and gun method works and you should try it the next time out and see what happens. I think you will be surprised.

Run & Gun Channel Cats
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Cyber Monday John Dow Industries 4" Heavy Duty Swivel Caster - DOW20DCE-3 2011 Deals

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Musculoskeletal Disorders (MSD) - An Overview of Preventive Methods

MSD's can range from general aches and pains to more serious problems. Medical practitioners do recommend that all the users who use computers regularly should report signs and symptoms as early as possible to prevent serious injury or permanent damage. The most commonly noticed signs and symptoms of MSD associated with computer use are as follows:

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Signs and Symptoms

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1) Numbness or a burning sensation in the hand

2) Reduced grip strength in the hand

3) Swelling or stiffness in the joints

4) Pain in wrists, forearms, elbows, neck, or back followed by discomfort

5) Reduced range of motion in the shoulder, neck, or back

6) Dry, itchy, or sore eyes

7) Blurred or double vision

8) Aching or tingling

9) Cramping

10) Loss of color in affected regions

11) Weakness

12) Tension stress headaches and related ailments

These types of problem can be caused by any of the following factors:

1. If the user maintains an unnatural or unhealthy posture while using the computer

2. If the lower back support is inadequate for the user

3. If the user continues to sit in the same position for an extended period of time

4. If the workstation set up is ergonomically poor.

It should be noticed that all these symptoms might not necessarily lead to an MSD. However, if the user experiences any of the above symptoms, he/she should make an evaluation of their working positions as well as the layout of their workstation.

It is always better to take precautions to avoid musculoskeletal disorders than to treat them after you get affected. Some general precautions include:

· Taking regular breaks from working at your computer - a few minutes at least once an hour

· Alternating work tasks like mixing computer tasks with non computer tasks alternately to avoid strain

· Regular stretching to relax your body

· Using comfort equipment such as footrests, wrist/palm rests, and document holders if required

· Keeping the mouse and keyboard at the same level

· Avoiding gripping your mouse too tightly - it is always recommended to hold the mouse lightly and click gently

The monitor should possess the following features:

· Your monitor should swivel, tilt and elevate - if not use an adjustable stand, books, or blocks to adjust the height

· It should be positioned so the top line of the monitor is not higher than your eyes or not lower than 20° below the horizon of your eyes or field of vision

· Ensure that it is at the same level and near the document holder if you use one

· It should be between 18 to 24 inches away from your face

The keyboard should possess the following features:

· It should be detachable and adjustable (with legs to adjust angle)

· It should allow your forearms to be parallel to the floor without having to raise your elbows

· It should allow your wrists to be in line with your forearms so your wrists need not be flexed up or down

· It should include enough space to rest your wrists or should include a padded detachable wrist rest (or you can use a separate gel wrist rest which should be at least 50 mm deep)

· It should be placed directly in front of the monitor and at the same height as the mouse, track ball, touch pad, or any other pointing device.

The chair should possess the following features:

· It should support the back, and have a vertically adjustable independent back rest that returns to its original position and should have tilt adjustment to support the lower back

· It should allow the user to adjust its height to be adjusted from a sitting position

· It should be adjusted so the back crease of the knee is slightly higher than the pan of the chair (use a suitable footrest, if required)
· It should be supported by a five prong caster base

· Ensure that it has removable and adjustable armrests

· It should also have a contoured seat with breathable fabric and rounded edges to distribute the weight and should be adjustable to allow the seat pan to tilt forward or back

The table/desk should possess the following features:

· Ensure that your table/desk provides ample leg room and is height adjustable (preferably)

· It should have enough room to support the computer equipment and space for documents

· It should be at least 900 mm deep

· It should have rounded and blunt corners and edges

As discussed earlier, ensure that your workstation is set up correctly. Normally, it includes the monitor, keyboard, mouse, seating, desk, and where appropriate, footrest, wrist rest, and document holder.

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3 Swivel Casters

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